Explore Montana: The Route of the Hiawatha
Originally published July 22nd, 2020
After years of leaving “Bike the Hiawatha” untouched on our summer bucket lists, the Williams and Rathbun families caravanned in three vehicles carrying four parents, one grandpa, and four kids (aged 19 months to 8 years old) and headed out for a day of adventure.
One flat tire and a beautiful ride later and we can finally see what all the fuss is about.
Unloading our bikes at Roland Trailhead.
So how did it go with our rag tag team? Surprisingly well! By far the best piece of advice we received was to skip the first tunnel. We’ll give you the directions down below, but bypassing the first (and longest) tunnel that is 1.66 miles of pitch black, muddy terrain, made a huge difference for surviving the trek with young kids. We may have missed a waterfall, but we all loved riding through the other eight tunnels and seven sky-high trestles and other than the aforementioned flat tire and some sore butts, it was perfect for us “first-timers.”
about the trail
The Route of the Hiawatha is a 15-mile long stretch of groomed trail going through tunnels, over trestles, and throughout some of the most beautiful mountainside around. Load up your bikes, or lace up your hiking boots and explore the scenic former Milwaukee Railroad! Best of all, it is mostly down hill. Unless of course you bike back up.
At the bottom are shuttle busses that will haul you and your bikes back up to the Roland Trailhead.
If you start at St. Paul Pass, you will ride through the 1.66 mile long Taft Tunnel, which includes a sign about halfway through marking the moment you cross from Montana into Idaho. We recommend you come well equipped with powerful headlamps or rent lights at Lookout Pass.
Note: the shuttle bus will take you back to Roland, which is after the Taft Tunnel. So if you park at St. Paul Pass, be prepared to bike the longest tunnel twice. In order to reduce the risk of kiddo meltdowns, and not knowing how well our mishmash of random lights would do in a tunnel, we opted to skip the first tunnel, and started at Roland. Which worked out perfectly for us.
The trail is open to all ages and skill levels and is recommended for kids ages 5 and up, if they are comfortable riding their own bike. It is well maintained and suitable for bike trailers and adaptive equipment. The two oldest in our group, ages six and eight, both did great riding their own bikes, and the younger two did great, one on a tag along and one in a bike trailer loaded with snacks. We enjoyed stopping to read informational signs and learn about the history of the area.
According the website Ride the Hiwatha another 31 miles of trail are being planned stretching all the way to St. Regis, Montana. This portion of the trail will include one more tunnel and 2 trestles, and will be for use by bikers, hikers, all terrain vehicles, horses, as well as automobiles.”
the history
The trail starts in the now-defunct town of Taft, Montana and quickly crosses into Idaho, following a portion of the Milwaukee Railroad, which was the last transcontinental route completed during the early 20th century, and linked Chicago and Seattle. Construction was finished and freight and passenger service were offered starting in 1909.
The path was known for running a speedy 100mph transcontinental passenger train known as the “Olympian Hiawatha,” which would run it’s final passenger service in 1961 and officially abandon all rail services by 1980.
getting there
From Missoula, you will head west on I-90 to Lookout Pass. You will actually need to pass the exit for Route of the Hiawatha and pick up your trail passes and shuttle passes from Lookout Pass Ski Area (even if you have pre-purchased them online).
After collecting any passes or rental equipment needed, you will get back on I-90 and head 5 miles East to Exit 5, and then 2 miles up Route 506 to Taft Trailhead.
For those wanting to bypass the long, dark, Taft Tunnel, simply drive past the East Portal parking area and follow the Road 506 signs for 5 miles to the Roland Trailhead. This is where the shuttle busses will bring you back to.
packing list
Trail Passes- we pre-purchased the trail passes online, but had to pick up the stickers in person and Lookout Pass Ski Area. The cost for two adults and two children (aged 6 and 8) was $40
Shuttle Passes- These can also be purchased online or at Lookout Pass, or at the end of your ride at Pearson Trailhead. Our cost for a family of four was $44, but does vary for specialty bikes and equipment
Helmets and Lights- Both are required on the trail. For those renting bikes, helmets and lights are included, or may be rented separately. Lights with at least 300 lumens are recommended.
Snacks- We packed our own and enjoyed a picnic lunch in the shade or you can pick up some sustenance at Lookout Pass, East Portal Trailhead and Pearson Trailhead.
Repair Kit- After one of member of our group got a flat tire, we realized we were woefully unprepared. Thankfully a Good Samaritan who was biking up the trail, was able to stop and get us going again with a hand pump and some small tools. Don’t make our mistake. Be sure and pack your own.
Water Bottle- There are orange coolers at different points along the trail to refill.
